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gemfyre20/3/2011
Wow, I am actually kinda chilly at the moment. I've just had a swim in the caravan park pool and am sitting in wet bathers wrapped in a wet towel and there is no humidity and a stiff breeze blowing! I am shocked. Perhaps I should have my shower now and do diary when I'm dressed.
I slept like a rock. Got up at some stage to go to the loo as usual (accompanied by about a dozen desert tree frogs – they'd also joined me in the shower), but slept soundly the rest of the night.
After dragging myself from the swag and getting dressed I took a wander across the Ashburton Bridge. I was surprised to see a plaque declaring the bridge opening in 2004. I soon realised that the pedestrian bridge I was crossing WAS the old Ashburton Bridge (the plaque on the far side confirmed this). I didn't realise that it had been a single lane jobby from 1966 all the way until 2004.
While I seem to have left severe mozzie country (thank God), Nanutarra still had serious fly issues. I spent most of the morning swatting them away. I had a simple breakfast of cereal and was amused to be accompanied by a friendly Yellow-throated Miner, who sat on the table and even started to pick at my breakfast when I went to grab something from the car. Got some great photos of the little guy.
As I turned onto the road towards Exmouth I saw my first living Emus for the trip, I have no idea how I managed not to see any until now, I saw more on the other side of the cape later in the day.
The one advantage of making it all the way to Nanutarra was that I had more time to explore the cape the next day. Kate informed me that I would be Exmouth by quarter to 10. On the way though I stopped a few times, to take photos of termite mounds (there are termite mounds everywhere in the tropics, but these were particularly photogenic), and to check out Charles Knife Canyon. Again, another windy road (this time unsealed and quite rocky) with arresting scenery to distract you at every turn. At the lookout I spoke with some other tourists who informed me that the Shothole Canyon Road was closed. Damn. Apparently that road runs along the bottom of the gorge, and it's probably currently either still wet, or quite flood damaged. Cyclone Carlos passed through barely a month ago. I will check the road again on my way out, but I doubt it will be open. Oh well, next time.
So, on I went to Exmouth, where I was met with more bad news – the Yardie Creek ferry tour wasn't going to be running until Wednesday. That's the day I planned to leave the peninsula. Dammit. Plenty of Whale Shark tours were running, but at $300 a pop they were a bit out of my price range. The glass bottom boat tours were running out of the boat ramp near Yardie Creek Homestead and from Coral Bay – depending on numbers. Hopefully I can get on one of these out of Coral Bay.
I figured I'd just have to do a walk around Yardie Creek gorge instead and after purchasing some lunch, headed off over the top of the peninsula. I checked out the Lighthouse Caravan Park and immediately wrote it off – it was all dirt, no grass. Yardie Creek Homestead, where I had planned to stay anyway, is much more pleasant. After paying for one night (at $18) I went off to explore further. I'm going to have to stay another night I think.
On the way out to the caravan park I checked out the Turtle Centre. This is just a an interpretive presentation on the way to a beach where Loggerhead, Green and Hawksbill Turtles are known to nest. The track is lit up at night, which is the time to come down to view turtles laying and see hatchlings dashing down the beach. I walked down to the beach and saw a lot of rock and not much sand. I quipped to the other guy that was out there that it was either a very narrow beach or it had been washed away. He must have been a local because he told me yes, it had been washed away in the cyclone. It was then I noticed the collapsed boardwalk leading down to the remains of the beach. Apparently the turtles had nested there, but the nests have all been washed away now. Very sad news for the turtles. With the amount of human and feral animal disturbance these days, they can't afford natural disasters like cyclones.
After checking out the caravan park I pulled in first to the Milyering Visitor's Centre – a place full of info and souvenirs. I bought some of that lovely smelling repellent that I first discovered in Roebourne and a cloth badge. I will probably go there for lunch tomorrow.
Seeing as it was getting late, I decided to take it easy and not worry about going all the way to Yardie Creek Crossing today – I would do that tomorrow instead and stay another night. I got as far as Turquoise Bay, where I had a swim, accompanied by a school of curious fish – MUCH larger than the ones at Python Pool, but at least these guys didn't want to bite me. I wasn't game enough to swim out to the reef and take a look – I'll probably save that for the tour, when I'm among other people who can teach me the ropes and keep an eye out for me. Just to swim there was gorgeous though – might have to return tomorrow.
I then checked out Mangrove Bay. The bird hide has many interpretive signs, some explaining how migratory waders roost in the bay at high tide. I have a hard time believing this as I was there at low tide and there was NOWHERE for a wader to roost – maybe a Tattler or two could make use of the few rocks that poked above the water, but that's it. At high tide even those rocks would become covered. I tried to pish up a mangrove grey fantail or whatever other interesting mangrove bird may appear – nothing. The only birds I saw at the hide were White-bellied Sea Eagle and Singing Honeyeater. I did take a look out at the mudflats just outside Mangrove Bay – now THIS looked like a likely spot for waders and I saw a few out there. Tomorrow afternoon I'll go back and take my scope.
By that time it was past 5pm and I figured it was time to settle down for the evening. I set up camp then had a dip in the pool. Once I got out it was very novel to actually feel chilly for a change. For a minute there I considered putting on jeans! And that's when I started writing today's diary.
I had heard rumours of Exmouth/Coral Bay being all saltwater showers. Well, Yardie Creek Homestead uses bore water for their showers and yes, it is salty! I imagine the towns probably have fresh water by now, but Yardie Creek Homestead is about 35km from Exmouth on the western side of the peninsula. The shower was very nice anyway.
I then emptied the car fridge to transfer the food to the camp kitchen fridge and assess the food inside. I figured the fish might be no good any more (it wasn't – it was also the source of the nasty smell in the car fridge). I also chucked the kangaroo, it looked a bit dodgy, was about a week old and I didn't want to risk it. I also had to throw out two courgettes that I bought in Broome because they had gone slimy. The fruit and the corn cob were still fine. The perils of taking fresh food camping when you can't run a fridge 24/7, it doesn't stay fresh for long. I cleaned out the fridge which had a layer of smelly water at the bottom and aired out the car and had tinned ravioli for dinner – which tasted like generic tinned slops, a bit of a novelty really, I hardly ever eat stuff out of tins or packets anymore.
And now we are all caught up. It's only 9pm, but I am pretty tired so I'll probably head to bed soon. Tomorrow I plan to go to Yardie Creek Crossing in the morning and wander around, then check out the other beaches in the national park before finishing up at the bird hide and heading back to camp for a lazy afternoon. The last few days have been so hectic, I need the rest.
20/3/2011 (Nanutarra, Ashburton Bridge, Charles Knife Canyon, Exmouth, Yardie Creek Homestead, Cape Range National Park – Visitor Centre, Turquoise Bay, Mangrove Bay)
Black Kite
Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike
Black-faced Woodswallow
Black-fronted Dotterel (H)
Blue-winged Kookaburra (H)
Brown Falcon
Brown Songlark
Budgerigar
Caspian Tern
Collared Sparrowhawk
Common Greenshank
Common Sandpiper
Crested Pigeon
Emu
Galah
Grey Shrike-thrush (H)
Grey-tailed Tattler
Lesser Crested Tern
Little Corella
Magpie Lark
Nankeen Kestrel
Peaceful Dove
Pied Butcherbird
Pied Oystercatcher
Rainbow Bee-eater
Sanderling
Silver Gull
Singing Honeyeater
Torresian Crow
Tree or Fairy Martin
Welcome Swallow
Western Bowerbird
Whimbrel
Whistling Kite
White-bellied Sea Eagle
White-necked Heron
White-plumed Honeyeater (H)
Willie Wagtail
Yellow-throated Miner
Zebra Finch (H)
See all of today's photos here.
Wow, I am actually kinda chilly at the moment. I've just had a swim in the caravan park pool and am sitting in wet bathers wrapped in a wet towel and there is no humidity and a stiff breeze blowing! I am shocked. Perhaps I should have my shower now and do diary when I'm dressed.
I slept like a rock. Got up at some stage to go to the loo as usual (accompanied by about a dozen desert tree frogs – they'd also joined me in the shower), but slept soundly the rest of the night.
After dragging myself from the swag and getting dressed I took a wander across the Ashburton Bridge. I was surprised to see a plaque declaring the bridge opening in 2004. I soon realised that the pedestrian bridge I was crossing WAS the old Ashburton Bridge (the plaque on the far side confirmed this). I didn't realise that it had been a single lane jobby from 1966 all the way until 2004.
 |
Ashburton River crossing Next to Nanutarra Roadhouse. I didn't know that a new bridge had been built. It opened in 2004. |
While I seem to have left severe mozzie country (thank God), Nanutarra still had serious fly issues. I spent most of the morning swatting them away. I had a simple breakfast of cereal and was amused to be accompanied by a friendly Yellow-throated Miner, who sat on the table and even started to pick at my breakfast when I went to grab something from the car. Got some great photos of the little guy.
| Yellow-throated Miner at Nanutarra When my back was turned he immediately started getting into my bowl of cereal. Rascal. |
 |
As I turned onto the road towards Exmouth I saw my first living Emus for the trip, I have no idea how I managed not to see any until now, I saw more on the other side of the cape later in the day.
The one advantage of making it all the way to Nanutarra was that I had more time to explore the cape the next day. Kate informed me that I would be Exmouth by quarter to 10. On the way though I stopped a few times, to take photos of termite mounds (there are termite mounds everywhere in the tropics, but these were particularly photogenic), and to check out Charles Knife Canyon. Again, another windy road (this time unsealed and quite rocky) with arresting scenery to distract you at every turn. At the lookout I spoke with some other tourists who informed me that the Shothole Canyon Road was closed. Damn. Apparently that road runs along the bottom of the gorge, and it's probably currently either still wet, or quite flood damaged. Cyclone Carlos passed through barely a month ago. I will check the road again on my way out, but I doubt it will be open. Oh well, next time.
 |
Charles Knife Canyon Spectacular layering in the rocks. |
So, on I went to Exmouth, where I was met with more bad news – the Yardie Creek ferry tour wasn't going to be running until Wednesday. That's the day I planned to leave the peninsula. Dammit. Plenty of Whale Shark tours were running, but at $300 a pop they were a bit out of my price range. The glass bottom boat tours were running out of the boat ramp near Yardie Creek Homestead and from Coral Bay – depending on numbers. Hopefully I can get on one of these out of Coral Bay.
I figured I'd just have to do a walk around Yardie Creek gorge instead and after purchasing some lunch, headed off over the top of the peninsula. I checked out the Lighthouse Caravan Park and immediately wrote it off – it was all dirt, no grass. Yardie Creek Homestead, where I had planned to stay anyway, is much more pleasant. After paying for one night (at $18) I went off to explore further. I'm going to have to stay another night I think.
| Vlamingh Head Lookout The northern tip of the Cape Range cape. |
 |
On the way out to the caravan park I checked out the Turtle Centre. This is just a an interpretive presentation on the way to a beach where Loggerhead, Green and Hawksbill Turtles are known to nest. The track is lit up at night, which is the time to come down to view turtles laying and see hatchlings dashing down the beach. I walked down to the beach and saw a lot of rock and not much sand. I quipped to the other guy that was out there that it was either a very narrow beach or it had been washed away. He must have been a local because he told me yes, it had been washed away in the cyclone. It was then I noticed the collapsed boardwalk leading down to the remains of the beach. Apparently the turtles had nested there, but the nests have all been washed away now. Very sad news for the turtles. With the amount of human and feral animal disturbance these days, they can't afford natural disasters like cyclones.
After checking out the caravan park I pulled in first to the Milyering Visitor's Centre – a place full of info and souvenirs. I bought some of that lovely smelling repellent that I first discovered in Roebourne and a cloth badge. I will probably go there for lunch tomorrow.
Seeing as it was getting late, I decided to take it easy and not worry about going all the way to Yardie Creek Crossing today – I would do that tomorrow instead and stay another night. I got as far as Turquoise Bay, where I had a swim, accompanied by a school of curious fish – MUCH larger than the ones at Python Pool, but at least these guys didn't want to bite me. I wasn't game enough to swim out to the reef and take a look – I'll probably save that for the tour, when I'm among other people who can teach me the ropes and keep an eye out for me. Just to swim there was gorgeous though – might have to return tomorrow.
 |
Cape Range National Park - Turquoise Bay The water is so shallow you can wade out to those dark areas, stick your head under the water (with goggles on) and view corals and fish right beside you. |
I then checked out Mangrove Bay. The bird hide has many interpretive signs, some explaining how migratory waders roost in the bay at high tide. I have a hard time believing this as I was there at low tide and there was NOWHERE for a wader to roost – maybe a Tattler or two could make use of the few rocks that poked above the water, but that's it. At high tide even those rocks would become covered. I tried to pish up a mangrove grey fantail or whatever other interesting mangrove bird may appear – nothing. The only birds I saw at the hide were White-bellied Sea Eagle and Singing Honeyeater. I did take a look out at the mudflats just outside Mangrove Bay – now THIS looked like a likely spot for waders and I saw a few out there. Tomorrow afternoon I'll go back and take my scope.
By that time it was past 5pm and I figured it was time to settle down for the evening. I set up camp then had a dip in the pool. Once I got out it was very novel to actually feel chilly for a change. For a minute there I considered putting on jeans! And that's when I started writing today's diary.
I had heard rumours of Exmouth/Coral Bay being all saltwater showers. Well, Yardie Creek Homestead uses bore water for their showers and yes, it is salty! I imagine the towns probably have fresh water by now, but Yardie Creek Homestead is about 35km from Exmouth on the western side of the peninsula. The shower was very nice anyway.
I then emptied the car fridge to transfer the food to the camp kitchen fridge and assess the food inside. I figured the fish might be no good any more (it wasn't – it was also the source of the nasty smell in the car fridge). I also chucked the kangaroo, it looked a bit dodgy, was about a week old and I didn't want to risk it. I also had to throw out two courgettes that I bought in Broome because they had gone slimy. The fruit and the corn cob were still fine. The perils of taking fresh food camping when you can't run a fridge 24/7, it doesn't stay fresh for long. I cleaned out the fridge which had a layer of smelly water at the bottom and aired out the car and had tinned ravioli for dinner – which tasted like generic tinned slops, a bit of a novelty really, I hardly ever eat stuff out of tins or packets anymore.
And now we are all caught up. It's only 9pm, but I am pretty tired so I'll probably head to bed soon. Tomorrow I plan to go to Yardie Creek Crossing in the morning and wander around, then check out the other beaches in the national park before finishing up at the bird hide and heading back to camp for a lazy afternoon. The last few days have been so hectic, I need the rest.
20/3/2011 (Nanutarra, Ashburton Bridge, Charles Knife Canyon, Exmouth, Yardie Creek Homestead, Cape Range National Park – Visitor Centre, Turquoise Bay, Mangrove Bay)
Black Kite
Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike
Black-faced Woodswallow
Black-fronted Dotterel (H)
Blue-winged Kookaburra (H)
Brown Falcon
Brown Songlark
Budgerigar
Caspian Tern
Collared Sparrowhawk
Common Greenshank
Common Sandpiper
Crested Pigeon
Emu
Galah
Grey Shrike-thrush (H)
Grey-tailed Tattler
Lesser Crested Tern
Little Corella
Magpie Lark
Nankeen Kestrel
Peaceful Dove
Pied Butcherbird
Pied Oystercatcher
Rainbow Bee-eater
Sanderling
Silver Gull
Singing Honeyeater
Torresian Crow
Tree or Fairy Martin
Welcome Swallow
Western Bowerbird
Whimbrel
Whistling Kite
White-bellied Sea Eagle
White-necked Heron
White-plumed Honeyeater (H)
Willie Wagtail
Yellow-throated Miner
Zebra Finch (H)
See all of today's photos here.
